Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War
"This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mat...
Ausführliche Beschreibung
Autor*in: |
Gronow, Jukka [verfasserIn] Zhuravlev, Sergey [verfasserIn] |
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Format: |
E-Book |
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Sprache: |
Englisch |
Erschienen: |
Helsinki: Finnish Literature Society / SKS ; 2015 |
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Rechteinformationen: |
Open Access Creative Commons ; https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0 |
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Schlagwörter: |
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Umfang: |
1 Online-Ressource (306 p.) |
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Reihe: |
Studia Fennica Historica |
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Links: | |
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ISBN: |
978-952-222-752-2 |
Katalog-ID: |
1778635962 |
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245 | 1 | 0 | |a Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
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520 | |a "This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." | ||
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9789522227522 978-952-222-752-2 20.500.12854/27812 hdl (DE-627)1778635962 (DE-599)KEP069421927 (OCoLC)1162847895 (DOAB)27812 (EBP)069421927 DE-627 ger DE-627 rakwb eng AKTH bicssc JFCK bicssc JPFF bicssc Gronow, Jukka verfasserin aut Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Helsinki Finnish Literature Society / SKS 2015 1 Online-Ressource (306 p.) Text txt rdacontent Computermedien c rdamedia Online-Ressource cr rdacarrier Studia Fennica Historica Open Access Unrestricted online access star "This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." Creative Commons https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0 cc English History of fashion Fashion & society Socialism & left-of-centre democratic ideologies Zhuravlev, Sergey verfasserin aut https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 X:DOAB Verlag kostenfrei ZDB-94-OAB GBV_ILN_11 ISIL_DE-1a SYSFLAG_1 GBV_KXP GBV_ILN_20 ISIL_DE-84 GBV_ILN_22 ISIL_DE-18 GBV_ILN_23 ISIL_DE-830 GBV_ILN_24 ISIL_DE-8 GBV_ILN_30 ISIL_DE-104 GBV_ILN_31 ISIL_DE-27 GBV_ILN_39 ISIL_DE-547 GBV_ILN_40 ISIL_DE-7 GBV_ILN_60 ISIL_DE-705 GBV_ILN_63 ISIL_DE-Wim2 GBV_ILN_65 ISIL_DE-3 GBV_ILN_70 ISIL_DE-89 GBV_ILN_72 ISIL_DE-35 GBV_ILN_90 ISIL_DE-Hil2 GBV_ILN_91 ISIL_DE-HIL3 GBV_ILN_92 ISIL_DE-33 GBV_ILN_95 ISIL_DE-542 GBV_ILN_105 ISIL_DE-841 GBV_ILN_110 ISIL_DE-Luen4 GBV_ILN_120 ISIL_DE-715 GBV_ILN_130 ISIL_DE-700 GBV_ILN_131 ISIL_DE-Va1 GBV_ILN_132 ISIL_DE-959 GBV_ILN_136 ISIL_DE-Wis1 GBV_ILN_147 ISIL_DE-Fl3 GBV_ILN_161 ISIL_DE-960 GBV_ILN_213 ISIL_DE-551 GBV_ILN_230 ISIL_DE-552 GBV_ILN_283 ISIL_DE-Ha163 GBV_ILN_285 ISIL_DE-517 GBV_ILN_293 ISIL_DE-960-3 GBV_ILN_370 ISIL_DE-1373 GBV_ILN_635 ISIL_DE-B2138 GBV_ILN_808 GBV_ILN_2011 ISIL_DE-16 GBV_ILN_2014 ISIL_DE-90 GBV_ILN_2018 ISIL_DE-31 GBV_ILN_2034 ISIL_DE-Rt2 GBV_ILN_2037 ISIL_DE-747 GBV_ILN_2050 ISIL_DE-Zi4 GBV_ILN_2108 ISIL_DE-991 GBV_ILN_2403 ISIL_DE-LFER BO 11 01 0001 4023198420 00 5:LIZFREI --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- k 20-12-21 20 01 0084 4012161571 OLR-DOAB z 02-12-21 22 01 0018 4006254660 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zu 25-11-21 23 01 0830 400677091X olr-doab f z 25-11-21 24 01 0008 4060486523 OLR-doab z 16-02-22 30 01 0104 4103350202 OLR-OAB Open Access, Directory of Open Access Books (DOAB) z 27-03-22 31 01 0027 4052606868 OLR-DOAB z 07-02-22 39 01 0547 4107259811 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB ke 30-03-22 40 01 0007 4011726249 OLR-DOAB xsn 01-12-21 60 01 0705 4276075491 OPENAccess Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Keine Weitergabe an Dritte. Kein systematisches Downloaden durch Robots. Nur für Angehörige der HSU: Volltextzugang von außerhalb des Campus mit Anmeldung über Shibboleth mit Ihrer Bibliothekskennung z 24-02-23 63 01 3401 4104983578 E-Books LF GBV-DOAB z 29-03-22 65 01 0003 4110856574 OLR-DOAB Nach dem deutschen Urheberrecht darf das Werk bzw. der Inhalt zum eigenen Gebrauch kostenfrei heruntergeladen, konsumiert, gespeichert oder ausgedruckt, nicht jedoch im Internet bereitgestellt oder an Außenstehende weitergegeben werden! z 02-04-22 70 01 0089 4006511337 OLR-DOAB-OA DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 25-11-21 72 01 0035 4105571931 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 29-03-22 90 01 3090 4107550338 OLR-HILoapen z 30-03-22 91 01 3091 4011478105 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 01-12-21 92 01 0033 4108795032 OLR-Open Access DOAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. Das Ebook ist frei zugänglich. z 31-03-22 95 01 3095 4342343460 OLR-OAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 23-06-23 105 01 0841 4007232350 OLR-OAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 25-11-21 110 01 3110 403130367X OLR-DOAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. 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9789522227522 978-952-222-752-2 20.500.12854/27812 hdl (DE-627)1778635962 (DE-599)KEP069421927 (OCoLC)1162847895 (DOAB)27812 (EBP)069421927 DE-627 ger DE-627 rakwb eng AKTH bicssc JFCK bicssc JPFF bicssc Gronow, Jukka verfasserin aut Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Helsinki Finnish Literature Society / SKS 2015 1 Online-Ressource (306 p.) Text txt rdacontent Computermedien c rdamedia Online-Ressource cr rdacarrier Studia Fennica Historica Open Access Unrestricted online access star "This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." Creative Commons https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0 cc English History of fashion Fashion & society Socialism & left-of-centre democratic ideologies Zhuravlev, Sergey verfasserin aut https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 X:DOAB Verlag kostenfrei ZDB-94-OAB GBV_ILN_11 ISIL_DE-1a SYSFLAG_1 GBV_KXP GBV_ILN_20 ISIL_DE-84 GBV_ILN_22 ISIL_DE-18 GBV_ILN_23 ISIL_DE-830 GBV_ILN_24 ISIL_DE-8 GBV_ILN_30 ISIL_DE-104 GBV_ILN_31 ISIL_DE-27 GBV_ILN_39 ISIL_DE-547 GBV_ILN_40 ISIL_DE-7 GBV_ILN_60 ISIL_DE-705 GBV_ILN_63 ISIL_DE-Wim2 GBV_ILN_65 ISIL_DE-3 GBV_ILN_70 ISIL_DE-89 GBV_ILN_72 ISIL_DE-35 GBV_ILN_90 ISIL_DE-Hil2 GBV_ILN_91 ISIL_DE-HIL3 GBV_ILN_92 ISIL_DE-33 GBV_ILN_95 ISIL_DE-542 GBV_ILN_105 ISIL_DE-841 GBV_ILN_110 ISIL_DE-Luen4 GBV_ILN_120 ISIL_DE-715 GBV_ILN_130 ISIL_DE-700 GBV_ILN_131 ISIL_DE-Va1 GBV_ILN_132 ISIL_DE-959 GBV_ILN_136 ISIL_DE-Wis1 GBV_ILN_147 ISIL_DE-Fl3 GBV_ILN_161 ISIL_DE-960 GBV_ILN_213 ISIL_DE-551 GBV_ILN_230 ISIL_DE-552 GBV_ILN_283 ISIL_DE-Ha163 GBV_ILN_285 ISIL_DE-517 GBV_ILN_293 ISIL_DE-960-3 GBV_ILN_370 ISIL_DE-1373 GBV_ILN_635 ISIL_DE-B2138 GBV_ILN_808 GBV_ILN_2011 ISIL_DE-16 GBV_ILN_2014 ISIL_DE-90 GBV_ILN_2018 ISIL_DE-31 GBV_ILN_2034 ISIL_DE-Rt2 GBV_ILN_2037 ISIL_DE-747 GBV_ILN_2050 ISIL_DE-Zi4 GBV_ILN_2108 ISIL_DE-991 GBV_ILN_2403 ISIL_DE-LFER BO 11 01 0001 4023198420 00 5:LIZFREI --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- k 20-12-21 20 01 0084 4012161571 OLR-DOAB z 02-12-21 22 01 0018 4006254660 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zu 25-11-21 23 01 0830 400677091X olr-doab f z 25-11-21 24 01 0008 4060486523 OLR-doab z 16-02-22 30 01 0104 4103350202 OLR-OAB Open Access, Directory of Open Access Books (DOAB) z 27-03-22 31 01 0027 4052606868 OLR-DOAB z 07-02-22 39 01 0547 4107259811 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB ke 30-03-22 40 01 0007 4011726249 OLR-DOAB xsn 01-12-21 60 01 0705 4276075491 OPENAccess Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Keine Weitergabe an Dritte. Kein systematisches Downloaden durch Robots. Nur für Angehörige der HSU: Volltextzugang von außerhalb des Campus mit Anmeldung über Shibboleth mit Ihrer Bibliothekskennung z 24-02-23 63 01 3401 4104983578 E-Books LF GBV-DOAB z 29-03-22 65 01 0003 4110856574 OLR-DOAB Nach dem deutschen Urheberrecht darf das Werk bzw. der Inhalt zum eigenen Gebrauch kostenfrei heruntergeladen, konsumiert, gespeichert oder ausgedruckt, nicht jedoch im Internet bereitgestellt oder an Außenstehende weitergegeben werden! z 02-04-22 70 01 0089 4006511337 OLR-DOAB-OA DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 25-11-21 72 01 0035 4105571931 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 29-03-22 90 01 3090 4107550338 OLR-HILoapen z 30-03-22 91 01 3091 4011478105 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 01-12-21 92 01 0033 4108795032 OLR-Open Access DOAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. Das Ebook ist frei zugänglich. z 31-03-22 95 01 3095 4342343460 OLR-OAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 23-06-23 105 01 0841 4007232350 OLR-OAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 25-11-21 110 01 3110 403130367X OLR-DOAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. 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Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 02-05-22 161 01 0960 4151735437 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 17-06-22 213 01 0551 4109804671 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 01-04-22 230 01 0552 4123612431 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 27-04-22 283 01 3283 4157638565 Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 28-06-22 285 01 0517 405042035X OLR-DOAB z 03-02-22 293 01 3293 415383341X OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 21-06-22 370 01 4370 4126350322 OLR-FREE Kostenloser Zugriff z 29-04-22 635 01 3635 4510011660 OLR-DOAB Open Access. Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 11-04-24 808 01 4808 4158783488 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zg 29-06-22 2011 01 DE-16 4022631090 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- l01 18-12-21 2014 01 DE-90 401089895X 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- l01 01-12-21 2018 01 DE-31 4033256997 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- n Der Zugriff ist kostenfrei möglich. l01 11-01-22 2034 01 DE-Rt2 4013894114 00 --%%-- eBook n n frei zugänglich l01 04-12-21 2037 01 DE-747 4346862721 00 --%%-- eBook OAPEN Foundation OpenAccess --%%-- n Im Internet frei verfügbar l01 02-07-23 2050 01 DE-Zi4 4091410189 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- n Elektronischer Volltext - Open Access l01 16-03-22 2108 01 DE-991 4096561061 00 --%%-- eBook DOAB --%%-- n Elektronischer Volltext - Campuslizenz l01 19-03-22 2403 01 DE-LFER 4019298076 00 --%%-- --%%-- n --%%-- l01 12-12-21 20 01 0084 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 22 01 0018 Volltextzugang https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 23 01 0830 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 24 01 0008 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 30 01 0104 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 31 01 0027 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 40 01 0007 Volltext, Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 60 01 0705 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 63 01 3401 E-Book https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 65 01 0003 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 65 01 0003 Dieser Titel ist Teil einer Datenbank http://www.bibliothek.uni-regensburg.de/dbinfo/detail.php?titel_id=11367&bib_id=ulb_hal 70 01 0089 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 72 01 0035 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 90 01 3090 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 91 01 3091 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 92 01 0033 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 95 01 3095 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 105 01 0841 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 110 01 3110 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 120 01 0715 http://49gbv-uob-primo.hosted.exlibrisgroup.com/openurl/49GBV_UOB/UOB_services_page?u.ignore_date_coverage=true&rft.mms_id=991015557203403501 130 01 0700 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 131 01 3131 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 132 01 0959 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 136 01 3526 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 147 01 3528 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 161 01 0960 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 LF 213 01 0551 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 230 01 0552 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 283 01 3283 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 285 01 0517 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 293 01 3293 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 LF 370 01 4370 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 635 01 3635 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 808 01 4808 Volltextzugang https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2011 01 DE-16 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2014 01 DE-90 Volltext frei verfügbar https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2034 01 DE-Rt2 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2037 01 DE-747 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2050 01 DE-Zi4 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2108 01 DE-991 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2403 01 DE-LFER https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 31 01 0027 00 E-Book Open Access 132 01 0959 00 EBooks DOAB Open Access 20 01 0084 OLR-DOAB 22 01 0018 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 23 01 0830 olr-doab 24 01 0008 OLR-doab 24 01 0008 olr-frei 30 01 0104 OLR-OAB 31 01 0027 OLR-DOAB 39 01 0547 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 39 01 0547 LF 40 01 0007 OLR-DOAB 60 01 0705 OPENAccess 63 01 3401 E-Books LF GBV-DOAB 65 01 0003 OLR-DOAB 70 01 0089 OLR-DOAB-OA 72 01 0035 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 90 01 3090 OLR-HILoapen 91 01 3091 OLR-DOAB 92 01 0033 OLR-Open Access DOAB 95 01 3095 OLR-OAB 105 01 0841 OLR-OAB 110 01 3110 OLR-DOAB 120 01 0715 alma 130 01 0700 OLR-DOAB 131 01 3131 OLR-OA-DOAB 132 01 0959 OLR-OAB 136 01 3526 OLR-DOAB 147 01 3528 OLR-DOAB 161 01 0960 OLR-DOAB 213 01 0551 OLR-DOAB 230 01 0552 OLR-DOAB 285 01 0517 OLR-DOAB 293 01 3293 OLR-DOAB 370 01 4370 OLR-FREE 370 01 4370 olr-ebook ZDB-94-OAB 635 01 3635 OLR-DOAB 808 01 4808 OLR-DOAB |
allfields_unstemmed |
9789522227522 978-952-222-752-2 20.500.12854/27812 hdl (DE-627)1778635962 (DE-599)KEP069421927 (OCoLC)1162847895 (DOAB)27812 (EBP)069421927 DE-627 ger DE-627 rakwb eng AKTH bicssc JFCK bicssc JPFF bicssc Gronow, Jukka verfasserin aut Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Helsinki Finnish Literature Society / SKS 2015 1 Online-Ressource (306 p.) Text txt rdacontent Computermedien c rdamedia Online-Ressource cr rdacarrier Studia Fennica Historica Open Access Unrestricted online access star "This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." Creative Commons https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0 cc English History of fashion Fashion & society Socialism & left-of-centre democratic ideologies Zhuravlev, Sergey verfasserin aut https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 X:DOAB Verlag kostenfrei ZDB-94-OAB GBV_ILN_11 ISIL_DE-1a SYSFLAG_1 GBV_KXP GBV_ILN_20 ISIL_DE-84 GBV_ILN_22 ISIL_DE-18 GBV_ILN_23 ISIL_DE-830 GBV_ILN_24 ISIL_DE-8 GBV_ILN_30 ISIL_DE-104 GBV_ILN_31 ISIL_DE-27 GBV_ILN_39 ISIL_DE-547 GBV_ILN_40 ISIL_DE-7 GBV_ILN_60 ISIL_DE-705 GBV_ILN_63 ISIL_DE-Wim2 GBV_ILN_65 ISIL_DE-3 GBV_ILN_70 ISIL_DE-89 GBV_ILN_72 ISIL_DE-35 GBV_ILN_90 ISIL_DE-Hil2 GBV_ILN_91 ISIL_DE-HIL3 GBV_ILN_92 ISIL_DE-33 GBV_ILN_95 ISIL_DE-542 GBV_ILN_105 ISIL_DE-841 GBV_ILN_110 ISIL_DE-Luen4 GBV_ILN_120 ISIL_DE-715 GBV_ILN_130 ISIL_DE-700 GBV_ILN_131 ISIL_DE-Va1 GBV_ILN_132 ISIL_DE-959 GBV_ILN_136 ISIL_DE-Wis1 GBV_ILN_147 ISIL_DE-Fl3 GBV_ILN_161 ISIL_DE-960 GBV_ILN_213 ISIL_DE-551 GBV_ILN_230 ISIL_DE-552 GBV_ILN_283 ISIL_DE-Ha163 GBV_ILN_285 ISIL_DE-517 GBV_ILN_293 ISIL_DE-960-3 GBV_ILN_370 ISIL_DE-1373 GBV_ILN_635 ISIL_DE-B2138 GBV_ILN_808 GBV_ILN_2011 ISIL_DE-16 GBV_ILN_2014 ISIL_DE-90 GBV_ILN_2018 ISIL_DE-31 GBV_ILN_2034 ISIL_DE-Rt2 GBV_ILN_2037 ISIL_DE-747 GBV_ILN_2050 ISIL_DE-Zi4 GBV_ILN_2108 ISIL_DE-991 GBV_ILN_2403 ISIL_DE-LFER BO 11 01 0001 4023198420 00 5:LIZFREI --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- k 20-12-21 20 01 0084 4012161571 OLR-DOAB z 02-12-21 22 01 0018 4006254660 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zu 25-11-21 23 01 0830 400677091X olr-doab f z 25-11-21 24 01 0008 4060486523 OLR-doab z 16-02-22 30 01 0104 4103350202 OLR-OAB Open Access, Directory of Open Access Books (DOAB) z 27-03-22 31 01 0027 4052606868 OLR-DOAB z 07-02-22 39 01 0547 4107259811 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB ke 30-03-22 40 01 0007 4011726249 OLR-DOAB xsn 01-12-21 60 01 0705 4276075491 OPENAccess Vervielfältigungen (z.B. 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Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 11-04-24 808 01 4808 4158783488 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zg 29-06-22 2011 01 DE-16 4022631090 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- l01 18-12-21 2014 01 DE-90 401089895X 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- l01 01-12-21 2018 01 DE-31 4033256997 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- n Der Zugriff ist kostenfrei möglich. l01 11-01-22 2034 01 DE-Rt2 4013894114 00 --%%-- eBook n n frei zugänglich l01 04-12-21 2037 01 DE-747 4346862721 00 --%%-- eBook OAPEN Foundation OpenAccess --%%-- n Im Internet frei verfügbar l01 02-07-23 2050 01 DE-Zi4 4091410189 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- n Elektronischer Volltext - Open Access l01 16-03-22 2108 01 DE-991 4096561061 00 --%%-- eBook DOAB --%%-- n Elektronischer Volltext - Campuslizenz l01 19-03-22 2403 01 DE-LFER 4019298076 00 --%%-- --%%-- n --%%-- l01 12-12-21 20 01 0084 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 22 01 0018 Volltextzugang https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 23 01 0830 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 24 01 0008 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 30 01 0104 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 31 01 0027 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 40 01 0007 Volltext, Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 60 01 0705 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 63 01 3401 E-Book https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 65 01 0003 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 65 01 0003 Dieser Titel ist Teil einer Datenbank http://www.bibliothek.uni-regensburg.de/dbinfo/detail.php?titel_id=11367&bib_id=ulb_hal 70 01 0089 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 72 01 0035 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 90 01 3090 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 91 01 3091 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 92 01 0033 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 95 01 3095 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 105 01 0841 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 110 01 3110 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 120 01 0715 http://49gbv-uob-primo.hosted.exlibrisgroup.com/openurl/49GBV_UOB/UOB_services_page?u.ignore_date_coverage=true&rft.mms_id=991015557203403501 130 01 0700 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 131 01 3131 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 132 01 0959 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 136 01 3526 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 147 01 3528 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 161 01 0960 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 LF 213 01 0551 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 230 01 0552 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 283 01 3283 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 285 01 0517 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 293 01 3293 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 LF 370 01 4370 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 635 01 3635 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 808 01 4808 Volltextzugang https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2011 01 DE-16 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2014 01 DE-90 Volltext frei verfügbar https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2034 01 DE-Rt2 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2037 01 DE-747 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2050 01 DE-Zi4 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2108 01 DE-991 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2403 01 DE-LFER https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 31 01 0027 00 E-Book Open Access 132 01 0959 00 EBooks DOAB Open Access 20 01 0084 OLR-DOAB 22 01 0018 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 23 01 0830 olr-doab 24 01 0008 OLR-doab 24 01 0008 olr-frei 30 01 0104 OLR-OAB 31 01 0027 OLR-DOAB 39 01 0547 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 39 01 0547 LF 40 01 0007 OLR-DOAB 60 01 0705 OPENAccess 63 01 3401 E-Books LF GBV-DOAB 65 01 0003 OLR-DOAB 70 01 0089 OLR-DOAB-OA 72 01 0035 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 90 01 3090 OLR-HILoapen 91 01 3091 OLR-DOAB 92 01 0033 OLR-Open Access DOAB 95 01 3095 OLR-OAB 105 01 0841 OLR-OAB 110 01 3110 OLR-DOAB 120 01 0715 alma 130 01 0700 OLR-DOAB 131 01 3131 OLR-OA-DOAB 132 01 0959 OLR-OAB 136 01 3526 OLR-DOAB 147 01 3528 OLR-DOAB 161 01 0960 OLR-DOAB 213 01 0551 OLR-DOAB 230 01 0552 OLR-DOAB 285 01 0517 OLR-DOAB 293 01 3293 OLR-DOAB 370 01 4370 OLR-FREE 370 01 4370 olr-ebook ZDB-94-OAB 635 01 3635 OLR-DOAB 808 01 4808 OLR-DOAB |
allfieldsGer |
9789522227522 978-952-222-752-2 20.500.12854/27812 hdl (DE-627)1778635962 (DE-599)KEP069421927 (OCoLC)1162847895 (DOAB)27812 (EBP)069421927 DE-627 ger DE-627 rakwb eng AKTH bicssc JFCK bicssc JPFF bicssc Gronow, Jukka verfasserin aut Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Helsinki Finnish Literature Society / SKS 2015 1 Online-Ressource (306 p.) Text txt rdacontent Computermedien c rdamedia Online-Ressource cr rdacarrier Studia Fennica Historica Open Access Unrestricted online access star "This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." Creative Commons https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0 cc English History of fashion Fashion & society Socialism & left-of-centre democratic ideologies Zhuravlev, Sergey verfasserin aut https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 X:DOAB Verlag kostenfrei ZDB-94-OAB GBV_ILN_11 ISIL_DE-1a SYSFLAG_1 GBV_KXP GBV_ILN_20 ISIL_DE-84 GBV_ILN_22 ISIL_DE-18 GBV_ILN_23 ISIL_DE-830 GBV_ILN_24 ISIL_DE-8 GBV_ILN_30 ISIL_DE-104 GBV_ILN_31 ISIL_DE-27 GBV_ILN_39 ISIL_DE-547 GBV_ILN_40 ISIL_DE-7 GBV_ILN_60 ISIL_DE-705 GBV_ILN_63 ISIL_DE-Wim2 GBV_ILN_65 ISIL_DE-3 GBV_ILN_70 ISIL_DE-89 GBV_ILN_72 ISIL_DE-35 GBV_ILN_90 ISIL_DE-Hil2 GBV_ILN_91 ISIL_DE-HIL3 GBV_ILN_92 ISIL_DE-33 GBV_ILN_95 ISIL_DE-542 GBV_ILN_105 ISIL_DE-841 GBV_ILN_110 ISIL_DE-Luen4 GBV_ILN_120 ISIL_DE-715 GBV_ILN_130 ISIL_DE-700 GBV_ILN_131 ISIL_DE-Va1 GBV_ILN_132 ISIL_DE-959 GBV_ILN_136 ISIL_DE-Wis1 GBV_ILN_147 ISIL_DE-Fl3 GBV_ILN_161 ISIL_DE-960 GBV_ILN_213 ISIL_DE-551 GBV_ILN_230 ISIL_DE-552 GBV_ILN_283 ISIL_DE-Ha163 GBV_ILN_285 ISIL_DE-517 GBV_ILN_293 ISIL_DE-960-3 GBV_ILN_370 ISIL_DE-1373 GBV_ILN_635 ISIL_DE-B2138 GBV_ILN_808 GBV_ILN_2011 ISIL_DE-16 GBV_ILN_2014 ISIL_DE-90 GBV_ILN_2018 ISIL_DE-31 GBV_ILN_2034 ISIL_DE-Rt2 GBV_ILN_2037 ISIL_DE-747 GBV_ILN_2050 ISIL_DE-Zi4 GBV_ILN_2108 ISIL_DE-991 GBV_ILN_2403 ISIL_DE-LFER BO 11 01 0001 4023198420 00 5:LIZFREI --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- k 20-12-21 20 01 0084 4012161571 OLR-DOAB z 02-12-21 22 01 0018 4006254660 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zu 25-11-21 23 01 0830 400677091X olr-doab f z 25-11-21 24 01 0008 4060486523 OLR-doab z 16-02-22 30 01 0104 4103350202 OLR-OAB Open Access, Directory of Open Access Books (DOAB) z 27-03-22 31 01 0027 4052606868 OLR-DOAB z 07-02-22 39 01 0547 4107259811 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB ke 30-03-22 40 01 0007 4011726249 OLR-DOAB xsn 01-12-21 60 01 0705 4276075491 OPENAccess Vervielfältigungen (z.B. 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Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 11-04-24 808 01 4808 4158783488 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zg 29-06-22 2011 01 DE-16 4022631090 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- l01 18-12-21 2014 01 DE-90 401089895X 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- l01 01-12-21 2018 01 DE-31 4033256997 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- n Der Zugriff ist kostenfrei möglich. l01 11-01-22 2034 01 DE-Rt2 4013894114 00 --%%-- eBook n n frei zugänglich l01 04-12-21 2037 01 DE-747 4346862721 00 --%%-- eBook OAPEN Foundation OpenAccess --%%-- n Im Internet frei verfügbar l01 02-07-23 2050 01 DE-Zi4 4091410189 00 --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- n Elektronischer Volltext - Open Access l01 16-03-22 2108 01 DE-991 4096561061 00 --%%-- eBook DOAB --%%-- n Elektronischer Volltext - Campuslizenz l01 19-03-22 2403 01 DE-LFER 4019298076 00 --%%-- --%%-- n --%%-- l01 12-12-21 20 01 0084 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 22 01 0018 Volltextzugang https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 23 01 0830 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 24 01 0008 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 30 01 0104 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 31 01 0027 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 40 01 0007 Volltext, Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 60 01 0705 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 63 01 3401 E-Book https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 65 01 0003 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 65 01 0003 Dieser Titel ist Teil einer Datenbank http://www.bibliothek.uni-regensburg.de/dbinfo/detail.php?titel_id=11367&bib_id=ulb_hal 70 01 0089 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 72 01 0035 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 90 01 3090 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 91 01 3091 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 92 01 0033 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 95 01 3095 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 105 01 0841 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 110 01 3110 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 120 01 0715 http://49gbv-uob-primo.hosted.exlibrisgroup.com/openurl/49GBV_UOB/UOB_services_page?u.ignore_date_coverage=true&rft.mms_id=991015557203403501 130 01 0700 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 131 01 3131 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 132 01 0959 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 136 01 3526 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 147 01 3528 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 161 01 0960 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 LF 213 01 0551 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 230 01 0552 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 283 01 3283 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 285 01 0517 Open Access https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 293 01 3293 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 LF 370 01 4370 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 635 01 3635 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 808 01 4808 Volltextzugang https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2011 01 DE-16 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2014 01 DE-90 Volltext frei verfügbar https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2034 01 DE-Rt2 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2037 01 DE-747 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2050 01 DE-Zi4 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2108 01 DE-991 https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 2403 01 DE-LFER https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 31 01 0027 00 E-Book Open Access 132 01 0959 00 EBooks DOAB Open Access 20 01 0084 OLR-DOAB 22 01 0018 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 23 01 0830 olr-doab 24 01 0008 OLR-doab 24 01 0008 olr-frei 30 01 0104 OLR-OAB 31 01 0027 OLR-DOAB 39 01 0547 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 39 01 0547 LF 40 01 0007 OLR-DOAB 60 01 0705 OPENAccess 63 01 3401 E-Books LF GBV-DOAB 65 01 0003 OLR-DOAB 70 01 0089 OLR-DOAB-OA 72 01 0035 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB 90 01 3090 OLR-HILoapen 91 01 3091 OLR-DOAB 92 01 0033 OLR-Open Access DOAB 95 01 3095 OLR-OAB 105 01 0841 OLR-OAB 110 01 3110 OLR-DOAB 120 01 0715 alma 130 01 0700 OLR-DOAB 131 01 3131 OLR-OA-DOAB 132 01 0959 OLR-OAB 136 01 3526 OLR-DOAB 147 01 3528 OLR-DOAB 161 01 0960 OLR-DOAB 213 01 0551 OLR-DOAB 230 01 0552 OLR-DOAB 285 01 0517 OLR-DOAB 293 01 3293 OLR-DOAB 370 01 4370 OLR-FREE 370 01 4370 olr-ebook ZDB-94-OAB 635 01 3635 OLR-DOAB 808 01 4808 OLR-DOAB |
allfieldsSound |
9789522227522 978-952-222-752-2 20.500.12854/27812 hdl (DE-627)1778635962 (DE-599)KEP069421927 (OCoLC)1162847895 (DOAB)27812 (EBP)069421927 DE-627 ger DE-627 rakwb eng AKTH bicssc JFCK bicssc JPFF bicssc Gronow, Jukka verfasserin aut Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War Helsinki Finnish Literature Society / SKS 2015 1 Online-Ressource (306 p.) Text txt rdacontent Computermedien c rdamedia Online-Ressource cr rdacarrier Studia Fennica Historica Open Access Unrestricted online access star "This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." Creative Commons https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0 cc English History of fashion Fashion & society Socialism & left-of-centre democratic ideologies Zhuravlev, Sergey verfasserin aut https://directory.doabooks.org/handle/20.500.12854/27812 X:DOAB Verlag kostenfrei ZDB-94-OAB GBV_ILN_11 ISIL_DE-1a SYSFLAG_1 GBV_KXP GBV_ILN_20 ISIL_DE-84 GBV_ILN_22 ISIL_DE-18 GBV_ILN_23 ISIL_DE-830 GBV_ILN_24 ISIL_DE-8 GBV_ILN_30 ISIL_DE-104 GBV_ILN_31 ISIL_DE-27 GBV_ILN_39 ISIL_DE-547 GBV_ILN_40 ISIL_DE-7 GBV_ILN_60 ISIL_DE-705 GBV_ILN_63 ISIL_DE-Wim2 GBV_ILN_65 ISIL_DE-3 GBV_ILN_70 ISIL_DE-89 GBV_ILN_72 ISIL_DE-35 GBV_ILN_90 ISIL_DE-Hil2 GBV_ILN_91 ISIL_DE-HIL3 GBV_ILN_92 ISIL_DE-33 GBV_ILN_95 ISIL_DE-542 GBV_ILN_105 ISIL_DE-841 GBV_ILN_110 ISIL_DE-Luen4 GBV_ILN_120 ISIL_DE-715 GBV_ILN_130 ISIL_DE-700 GBV_ILN_131 ISIL_DE-Va1 GBV_ILN_132 ISIL_DE-959 GBV_ILN_136 ISIL_DE-Wis1 GBV_ILN_147 ISIL_DE-Fl3 GBV_ILN_161 ISIL_DE-960 GBV_ILN_213 ISIL_DE-551 GBV_ILN_230 ISIL_DE-552 GBV_ILN_283 ISIL_DE-Ha163 GBV_ILN_285 ISIL_DE-517 GBV_ILN_293 ISIL_DE-960-3 GBV_ILN_370 ISIL_DE-1373 GBV_ILN_635 ISIL_DE-B2138 GBV_ILN_808 GBV_ILN_2011 ISIL_DE-16 GBV_ILN_2014 ISIL_DE-90 GBV_ILN_2018 ISIL_DE-31 GBV_ILN_2034 ISIL_DE-Rt2 GBV_ILN_2037 ISIL_DE-747 GBV_ILN_2050 ISIL_DE-Zi4 GBV_ILN_2108 ISIL_DE-991 GBV_ILN_2403 ISIL_DE-LFER BO 11 01 0001 4023198420 00 5:LIZFREI --%%-- --%%-- --%%-- k 20-12-21 20 01 0084 4012161571 OLR-DOAB z 02-12-21 22 01 0018 4006254660 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books zu 25-11-21 23 01 0830 400677091X olr-doab f z 25-11-21 24 01 0008 4060486523 OLR-doab z 16-02-22 30 01 0104 4103350202 OLR-OAB Open Access, Directory of Open Access Books (DOAB) z 27-03-22 31 01 0027 4052606868 OLR-DOAB z 07-02-22 39 01 0547 4107259811 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB ke 30-03-22 40 01 0007 4011726249 OLR-DOAB xsn 01-12-21 60 01 0705 4276075491 OPENAccess Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Keine Weitergabe an Dritte. Kein systematisches Downloaden durch Robots. Nur für Angehörige der HSU: Volltextzugang von außerhalb des Campus mit Anmeldung über Shibboleth mit Ihrer Bibliothekskennung z 24-02-23 63 01 3401 4104983578 E-Books LF GBV-DOAB z 29-03-22 65 01 0003 4110856574 OLR-DOAB Nach dem deutschen Urheberrecht darf das Werk bzw. der Inhalt zum eigenen Gebrauch kostenfrei heruntergeladen, konsumiert, gespeichert oder ausgedruckt, nicht jedoch im Internet bereitgestellt oder an Außenstehende weitergegeben werden! z 02-04-22 70 01 0089 4006511337 OLR-DOAB-OA DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 25-11-21 72 01 0035 4105571931 OLR-ZDB-94-OAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 29-03-22 90 01 3090 4107550338 OLR-HILoapen z 30-03-22 91 01 3091 4011478105 OLR-DOAB DOAB Directory of Open Access Books z 01-12-21 92 01 0033 4108795032 OLR-Open Access DOAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. Das Ebook ist frei zugänglich. z 31-03-22 95 01 3095 4342343460 OLR-OAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 23-06-23 105 01 0841 4007232350 OLR-OAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. z 25-11-21 110 01 3110 403130367X OLR-DOAB Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. 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code="a">ISIL_DE-Zi4</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">GBV_ILN_2108</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">ISIL_DE-991</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">GBV_ILN_2403</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">ISIL_DE-LFER</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="951" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">BO</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">11</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0001</subfield><subfield code="b">4023198420</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">5:LIZFREI</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="y">k</subfield><subfield code="z">20-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">20</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0084</subfield><subfield code="b">4012161571</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">02-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">22</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0018</subfield><subfield code="b">4006254660</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-ZDB-94-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">zu</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">23</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0830</subfield><subfield code="b">400677091X</subfield><subfield code="h">olr-doab</subfield><subfield code="u">f</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">24</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0008</subfield><subfield code="b">4060486523</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-doab</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">16-02-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">30</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0104</subfield><subfield code="b">4103350202</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Open Access, Directory of Open Access Books (DOAB)</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">27-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">31</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0027</subfield><subfield code="b">4052606868</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">07-02-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">39</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0547</subfield><subfield code="b">4107259811</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-ZDB-94-OAB</subfield><subfield code="y">ke</subfield><subfield code="z">30-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">40</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0007</subfield><subfield code="b">4011726249</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">xsn</subfield><subfield code="z">01-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">60</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0705</subfield><subfield code="b">4276075491</subfield><subfield code="h">OPENAccess</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Keine Weitergabe an Dritte. Kein systematisches Downloaden durch Robots.</subfield><subfield code="k">Nur für Angehörige der HSU: Volltextzugang von außerhalb des Campus mit Anmeldung über Shibboleth mit Ihrer Bibliothekskennung</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">24-02-23</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">63</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3401</subfield><subfield code="b">4104983578</subfield><subfield code="h">E-Books LF GBV-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">29-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">65</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0003</subfield><subfield code="b">4110856574</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Nach dem deutschen Urheberrecht darf das Werk bzw. der Inhalt zum eigenen Gebrauch kostenfrei heruntergeladen, konsumiert, gespeichert oder ausgedruckt, nicht jedoch im Internet bereitgestellt oder an Außenstehende weitergegeben werden!</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">02-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">70</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0089</subfield><subfield code="b">4006511337</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB-OA</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">72</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0035</subfield><subfield code="b">4105571931</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-ZDB-94-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">29-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">90</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3090</subfield><subfield code="b">4107550338</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-HILoapen</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">30-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">91</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3091</subfield><subfield code="b">4011478105</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">01-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">92</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0033</subfield><subfield code="b">4108795032</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-Open Access DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. Das Ebook ist frei zugänglich.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">31-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">95</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3095</subfield><subfield code="b">4342343460</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">23-06-23</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">105</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0841</subfield><subfield code="b">4007232350</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">110</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3110</subfield><subfield code="b">403130367X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="k">Open Access</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">07-01-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">120</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0715</subfield><subfield code="b">4015540018</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">g</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="h">alma</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">07-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">130</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0700</subfield><subfield code="b">4146772966</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">09-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">131</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3131</subfield><subfield code="b">4465873727</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OA-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Bitte beachten Sie die Nutzungsbedingungen und Copyright-Bestimmungen des Verlages/Herausgebers.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">23-01-24</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">132</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0959</subfield><subfield code="b">415025057X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="u">Open Access</subfield><subfield code="y">x</subfield><subfield code="z">15-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">136</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3526</subfield><subfield code="b">4005795234</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">24-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">147</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3528</subfield><subfield code="b">412773504X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">frei verfügbar für Europa-Universität Flensburg, Hochschule Flensburg und Zentrale Hochschulbibliothek</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">02-05-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">161</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0960</subfield><subfield code="b">4151735437</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">17-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">213</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0551</subfield><subfield code="b">4109804671</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">01-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">230</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0552</subfield><subfield code="b">4123612431</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">27-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">283</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3283</subfield><subfield code="b">4157638565</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">28-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">285</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0517</subfield><subfield code="b">405042035X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">03-02-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">293</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3293</subfield><subfield code="b">415383341X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">21-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">370</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">4370</subfield><subfield code="b">4126350322</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-FREE</subfield><subfield code="k">Kostenloser Zugriff</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">29-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">635</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3635</subfield><subfield code="b">4510011660</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Open Access. Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">11-04-24</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">808</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">4808</subfield><subfield code="b">4158783488</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">zg</subfield><subfield code="z">29-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2011</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-16</subfield><subfield code="b">4022631090</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">18-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2014</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-90</subfield><subfield code="b">401089895X</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">01-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2018</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-31</subfield><subfield code="b">4033256997</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Der Zugriff ist kostenfrei möglich.</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">11-01-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2034</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-Rt2</subfield><subfield code="b">4013894114</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">eBook</subfield><subfield code="e">n</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">frei zugänglich</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">04-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2037</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-747</subfield><subfield code="b">4346862721</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">eBook OAPEN Foundation OpenAccess</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Im Internet frei verfügbar</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">02-07-23</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2050</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-Zi4</subfield><subfield code="b">4091410189</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Elektronischer Volltext - Open Access</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">16-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2108</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-991</subfield><subfield code="b">4096561061</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">eBook DOAB</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Elektronischer Volltext - Campuslizenz</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">19-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield 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Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
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title_full |
Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
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fashion meets socialism: fashion industry in the soviet union after the second world war |
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Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
abstract |
"This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." |
abstractGer |
"This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." |
abstract_unstemmed |
"This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press." |
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title_short |
Fashion Meets Socialism: Fashion industry in the Soviet Union after the Second World War |
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code="a">ISIL_DE-Zi4</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">GBV_ILN_2108</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">ISIL_DE-991</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">GBV_ILN_2403</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="912" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">ISIL_DE-LFER</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="951" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="a">BO</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">11</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0001</subfield><subfield code="b">4023198420</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">5:LIZFREI</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="y">k</subfield><subfield code="z">20-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">20</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0084</subfield><subfield code="b">4012161571</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">02-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">22</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0018</subfield><subfield code="b">4006254660</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-ZDB-94-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">zu</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">23</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0830</subfield><subfield code="b">400677091X</subfield><subfield code="h">olr-doab</subfield><subfield code="u">f</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">24</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0008</subfield><subfield code="b">4060486523</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-doab</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">16-02-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">30</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0104</subfield><subfield code="b">4103350202</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Open Access, Directory of Open Access Books (DOAB)</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">27-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">31</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0027</subfield><subfield code="b">4052606868</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">07-02-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">39</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0547</subfield><subfield code="b">4107259811</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-ZDB-94-OAB</subfield><subfield code="y">ke</subfield><subfield code="z">30-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">40</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0007</subfield><subfield code="b">4011726249</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">xsn</subfield><subfield code="z">01-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">60</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0705</subfield><subfield code="b">4276075491</subfield><subfield code="h">OPENAccess</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Keine Weitergabe an Dritte. Kein systematisches Downloaden durch Robots.</subfield><subfield code="k">Nur für Angehörige der HSU: Volltextzugang von außerhalb des Campus mit Anmeldung über Shibboleth mit Ihrer Bibliothekskennung</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">24-02-23</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">63</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3401</subfield><subfield code="b">4104983578</subfield><subfield code="h">E-Books LF GBV-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">29-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">65</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0003</subfield><subfield code="b">4110856574</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Nach dem deutschen Urheberrecht darf das Werk bzw. der Inhalt zum eigenen Gebrauch kostenfrei heruntergeladen, konsumiert, gespeichert oder ausgedruckt, nicht jedoch im Internet bereitgestellt oder an Außenstehende weitergegeben werden!</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">02-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">70</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0089</subfield><subfield code="b">4006511337</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB-OA</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">72</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0035</subfield><subfield code="b">4105571931</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-ZDB-94-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">29-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">90</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3090</subfield><subfield code="b">4107550338</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-HILoapen</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">30-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">91</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3091</subfield><subfield code="b">4011478105</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">01-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">92</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0033</subfield><subfield code="b">4108795032</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-Open Access DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt. Das Ebook ist frei zugänglich.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">31-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">95</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3095</subfield><subfield code="b">4342343460</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">23-06-23</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">105</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0841</subfield><subfield code="b">4007232350</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">25-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">110</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3110</subfield><subfield code="b">403130367X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="k">Open Access</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">07-01-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">120</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0715</subfield><subfield code="b">4015540018</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">g</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="h">alma</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">07-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">130</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0700</subfield><subfield code="b">4146772966</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">09-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">131</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3131</subfield><subfield code="b">4465873727</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OA-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Bitte beachten Sie die Nutzungsbedingungen und Copyright-Bestimmungen des Verlages/Herausgebers.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">23-01-24</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">132</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0959</subfield><subfield code="b">415025057X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-OAB</subfield><subfield code="u">Open Access</subfield><subfield code="y">x</subfield><subfield code="z">15-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">136</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3526</subfield><subfield code="b">4005795234</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">24-11-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">147</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3528</subfield><subfield code="b">412773504X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">frei verfügbar für Europa-Universität Flensburg, Hochschule Flensburg und Zentrale Hochschulbibliothek</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">02-05-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">161</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0960</subfield><subfield code="b">4151735437</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">17-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">213</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0551</subfield><subfield code="b">4109804671</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">01-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">230</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0552</subfield><subfield code="b">4123612431</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">27-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">283</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3283</subfield><subfield code="b">4157638565</subfield><subfield code="k">Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">28-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">285</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">0517</subfield><subfield code="b">405042035X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">03-02-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">293</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3293</subfield><subfield code="b">415383341X</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">21-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">370</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">4370</subfield><subfield code="b">4126350322</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-FREE</subfield><subfield code="k">Kostenloser Zugriff</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">29-04-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">635</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">3635</subfield><subfield code="b">4510011660</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">Open Access. Vervielfältigungen (z.B. Kopien, Downloads) sind nur von einzelnen Kapiteln oder Seiten und nur zum eigenen wissenschaftlichen Gebrauch erlaubt. Die Weitergabe an Dritte sowie systematisches Downloaden sind untersagt.</subfield><subfield code="y">z</subfield><subfield code="z">11-04-24</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">808</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">4808</subfield><subfield code="b">4158783488</subfield><subfield code="h">OLR-DOAB</subfield><subfield code="k">DOAB Directory of Open Access Books</subfield><subfield code="y">zg</subfield><subfield code="z">29-06-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2011</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-16</subfield><subfield code="b">4022631090</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">18-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2014</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-90</subfield><subfield code="b">401089895X</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">01-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2018</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-31</subfield><subfield code="b">4033256997</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Der Zugriff ist kostenfrei möglich.</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">11-01-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2034</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-Rt2</subfield><subfield code="b">4013894114</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">eBook</subfield><subfield code="e">n</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">frei zugänglich</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">04-12-21</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2037</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-747</subfield><subfield code="b">4346862721</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">eBook OAPEN Foundation OpenAccess</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Im Internet frei verfügbar</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">02-07-23</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2050</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-Zi4</subfield><subfield code="b">4091410189</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Elektronischer Volltext - Open Access</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">16-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield code="2">2108</subfield><subfield code="1">01</subfield><subfield code="x">DE-991</subfield><subfield code="b">4096561061</subfield><subfield code="c">00</subfield><subfield code="f">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="d">eBook DOAB</subfield><subfield code="e">--%%--</subfield><subfield code="j">n</subfield><subfield code="k">Elektronischer Volltext - Campuslizenz</subfield><subfield code="y">l01</subfield><subfield code="z">19-03-22</subfield></datafield><datafield tag="980" ind1=" " ind2=" "><subfield 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