Long-shore distribution of morphodynamic beach states along an apparently homogeneous coast in SW Spain

Abstract We present a morphodynamic study of an apparently homogeneous rectilinear coast in SW Spain. The study area covers 14 km of mesotidal sandy beaches, interrupted in some places by rocky-shore platforms. The method used consisted of a monthly monitoring of 12 beach profiles during two years....
Ausführliche Beschreibung

Abstract We present a morphodynamic study of an apparently homogeneous rectilinear coast in SW Spain. The study area covers 14 km of mesotidal sandy beaches, interrupted in some places by rocky-shore platforms. The method used consisted of a monthly monitoring of 12 beach profiles during two years. According to the results obtained from the study, which also include granulometric analyses andin situ determination of the beach disturbance depth, three main beach classes have been differentiated: low-reflective beaches, dissipative beaches and rocky-shore platform beaches. Their longitudinal distribution is not linked to their distance to the main source of sediments in the area (mouth of the river Guadalquivir). Instead, a very irregular long-shore variation of morphodynamic beach states appears. It is deduced that this long-shore variation is mainly linked to local contouring conditions (e.g. the presence of rocky shoals which affect wave-breaking processes), and not to the regional long-shore currents prevailing in the zone. Ausführliche Beschreibung